Go Slow with 1 week on Caye Caulker

The island of Caye Caulker (pronounced *Kay Kaw-Kuh*) exudes its motto of “Go Slow”. This tiny island sits east off the coast of Belize. It’s an oasis that makes it all too easy to forget what day of the week it is. Here’s how to spend 1 week on Caye Caulker.

The island is 5 miles long and divided by a narrow channel in the core called the Split. To get around the island simply drive a golf cart, ride a bike, or kick off your sandals and wander barefoot. The people are full of life and keen to show off their beautiful island. But don’t expect anything to be done quickly – everyone is on island time!

How to get to Caye Caulker 

Following on from our explorations in Mexico, we headed south to Belize. You can read about our 3 days in Tulum and how we spent 24 hours on Isla Holbox here.

From Cancun, we grabbed an overnight ADO bus from Chetumal for 529 MXN pp.  Upon arriving in Chetumal, we hired a private driver to pick up the 3 of us, take us to the Belizean border, and then drive us to the ferry port in Belize City. Coral, being the most organised traveller I know, found an alternative blog that gave all the answers on how to do this and it worked perfectly! 

We arrived in Chetumal at 5:30am and were swiftly picked up by our contact’s taxi driver. It’s a 20-minute drive to the border. We then followed their lead to go through the paperwork and steps to crossing the border. This part took about an hour despite being completely empty but was easy enough.

It’s then a 2-hour drive to Belize City. We were dropped off at the ferry terminal and after a stressful scramble paying the driver and grabbing ferry tickets, we managed to make the 9am ferry to Caye Caulker. It takes roughly 45 minutes to sail there and costs $20 USD (£16) one-way. 

Finally, at 10am and after a long journey, we made it to Caye Caulker and headed to our hostel.

Where to stay 

We stayed at Bella’s Backpackers, one of the few hostels on the island, with me and Coral in a shared dorm for the week. The hostel is in a great location, just off the main street through the island. It’s also very sociable with lots of backpackers staying there and they host events every evening. 

However, our dorm was sweltering with no air-con and we got eaten alive by the lack of working mosquito nets! Plus, it often wasn’t the cleanest hostel to stay in. Despite this, we made it work by dousing ourselves in bug spray and Coral and I sleeping with direct access to a fan – all part of the experience!

A couple of days in, Luke & Laura (friends from my Whistler course) joined, having already travelled part of Central America. They had a private room with air conditioning which made a HUGE difference! Finally, the crew were formed and we had a great time all together! 

Where to eat 

La Cubana 

One of our first restaurant encounters while on the island was La Cubana. We were overwhelmed by the menu options but whenever you’re unsure about what to pick, always ask the staff. The waitress recommended the Cuban sandwich, among other things, and I’m glad to say it worked a treat! 

Ice and Beans 

If there’s one place you must go to when spending 1 week on Caye Caulker, it’s Ice and Beans. We practically visited every day! It’s ideal for a hearty breakfast or lunch, open from 6am till 6pm. It produces delicious bagels made to your exact requirements. They make moor-ish ice frappuccinos which are perfect for curbing that caffeine fix while keeping you cool! I would recommend the breakfast bagel and a mocha or white chocolate frappé.

Steve’s Grill 

The common dish on the island is rice and beans and everyone on the island has their own take on it. We headed to Steve’s Grill one evening to enjoy a selection of chicken, rice and beans. It’s a popular spot, so don’t worry if you’re guided into the sports bar opposite to wait until a table is available.

Maggies Sunset Kitchen 

Another popular spot is Maggie’s Sunset Kitchen, which also offers delicious chicken, rice and beans. There’s also a variety of grilled vegetables and it’s in a great setting by the water. Head there for sunset for a stunning view.

Chef Juan’s Kitchen

Next to Bella’s you will find Chef Juan’s Kitchen. This restaurant serves yummy dishes throughout the day and I would highly recommend the Thai Red Curry or Jerk Chicken. There’s more variation on the menu which is a nice change from the rice and beans offering. Be warned, their spice levels are high! 

Café By The Sea

Looking for a quiet lunch spot? Head to Café by the Sea. Coral and I headed here one afternoon when we were trying to escape the sun. We enjoyed a Mexican feast of quesadillas and burritos while reading our books by the sea. Such a dreamy set-up! 

What to do with 1 week on Caye Caulker

Lazy Lizard at The Split

The Split is the gap that separates the island. This narrow channel is believed to be created by the infamous Hurricane Hattie which hit the island in 1961. It’s now the ideal route for boats to pass through the island rather than make the long journey around which often caused them to run out of gas. 

When you head to The Split, it’s a hive of activity. With a couple of bars, including the Lazy Lizard, spend the afternoon watching the boats pass and kids jump into the water while sipping a cocktail. Be warned – there’s not much shade coverage and the sun is intense! I learned this the hard way with an extremely burnt back after a few hours of reading on the pier. 

Salt Life Eco Tours 

The one activity you must do while spending 1 week on Caye Caulker is a snorkelling trip with Salt Life Eco Tours. One of the many excursion companies on the island, this family-run business has the ocean’s welfare at its heart. 14 of us were on our boat from 10am till 3pm and made several stops throughout the day. We saw manatees and swam with a host of marine life such as; turtles, nurse sharks, fish and stingrays.

The company provides snorkels and flippers for you to use when swimming around. They also bring a delicious homemade lunch of, you guessed it, rice and beans – plus, fruit, snacks and a strong rum punch! 

If you catch the sun like me, I’d recommend covering up as much as possible! I wore a long sleeve top to cover the back burn I had, but then suffered serious sunburn on parts of my exposed bum – sitting and lying down was agony for a few days! 

Spearfishing 

On the final day of our trip, Luke, Laura and Tom headed out for a day of spearfishing. If you’re looking for an adrenaline-fuelled experience where you get to eat what you catch then this is the activity for you! Once they returned, we had a big cook-up at Bella’s with everything they had caught. Super tasty when you know it’s fresh! 

Sunset boat trip with Bellas

The hostel hosts events every evening and Tom, Coral and I lucked out by being there for Bella’s Sunday Funday! The afternoon consisted of games, flowing rum punch, a water balloon fight and a watermelon eating contest, followed by a sunset boat trip. It was such a fun night! 

Paddle with stingrays at sunset

Every evening at sunset, roughly around 6pm, the Iguana Reef Hotel feeds the stingrays. Walk for 5 minutes along the west coastline and you’ll find a crowd of people standing in the shallows. Feeling a stingray brush against your feet is such a weird feeling but a cool experience! 

Namaste Yoga Studio

Naturally fitting with the “Go Slow” lifestyle, you’ll find a Namaste Yoga studio in the middle of the island. One morning, Tom, Coral and I joined for an hour’s donation-led session. It was a great class that suits all abilities and has you moving on the open-air top floor of the building. Afterwards, grab brunch at their café – I’d recommend the French Toast! 

After 1 week on Caye Caulker, we had fully relaxed into island life. Our daily routine of bagels and frappés was a great way to start the day and the range of activities available means there’s plenty to keep you occupied. 

After Caye Caulker, we headed to Costa Rica. Read the next instalment of our adventure here.

Catch up on all the travels by following me on Instagram @ellielwilliams. For more wanderlust, check out my travel tips and highlights here.

Els x