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North America,  Travel

Whistler: Your Ultimate Guide 

Nestled in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, you’ll find the quaint village of Whistler. This ski town is the largest resort in North America with 2 mountains of Whistler and Blackcomb combined. With so much skiing to cover, bars and restaurants to choose from and non-skiing activities to revel in, it’s easy to be overwhelmed. This guide will provide you with all the information you need to ensure the best time in Whistler.

Top of Whistler Gondola - Olympic Rings
Top of Whistler Gondola – Olympic rings

How to get there

From Vancouver, it’s roughly a 2-hour transfer up to the mountains. The best option is to book a one-way ticket from the airport to Whistler for $35 with EPIC Rides.

If you’re looking to head into the city beforehand, catch the SkyTrain’s Canada Line into Vancouver City Centre. For $9.35 CAD, the 20-25 minute train will take you right into the heart of the city. 

To reach Whistler from the city centre, take the EPIC rides shuttle up from outside Burrard Station.

The road will wind its way up to the town with great views of the city behind you and Vancouver Island to your left. There’s nothing better than climbing the mountain road knowing what snowy scenes await! 

If you’re in need of recommendations for Vancouver, read my post “How to spend 2 days in Vancouver” here.
Capilano Suspension Bridge, Vancouver
Capilano Suspension Bridge

Where to stay

During our course, the majority of us stayed in Tantalus Lodge, a 5-minute walk from the town centre. These 2 bedroom apartments are ideally located, a great self-catered option and can easily sleep up to 6 including the sofa beds. There are also 2 hot tubs and a pool for guests to use which is the perfect way to end your ski day and soak those tired legs.

Some other suggestions for where to stay in Whistler are the Pangea Pod Hotel, which is the closest thing to a hostel, and the Westin, which is well located a short walk from the main lifts.

Blackcomb Glacier in the sunshine
Blackcomb Glacier in the sunshine

Where to eat 

On the Mountain

Unlike skiing in the Alps, where chalets huts are dotted throughout the mountains ready for multiple coffees and beer breaks, Whistler Blackcomb hosts 3 main lunchtime options. On Whistler; the Roundhouse, and on Blackcomb; Rendezvous and Glacier Creek. All 3 host similar self-service options with variations of poutine, burgers, burritos, salad, snacks and hot/cold drinks. There’s also free drinking water available. 

Creekside

For a typical Canadian-style breakfast, visit Southside Diner in Creekside. It’s great if you’re in the mood for pancakes and milkshakes. Plus, on weekdays between 1-3pm, they host a special deal of wings and beer for $10. Make sure you arrive hungry though as portions are sizeable!

Pulled Pork Burger and salad at Dusty's
Pulled Pork Burger and salad at Dusty’s

Eating in Whistler Village

For baked goods, head to Purebread and be amazed by the overwhelming choices available. From almond croissants to brownies, scones, cakes, cookies, pastries and bread you can’t make a bad choice as everything is delicious! 

Never one to turn down Mexican food, La Catina is the place to go! Yummy tacos with a variety of meat and vegetarian options, plus frozen margaritas to accompany and you can count me in! 

Where to ski 

With two mountains to choose from, the skiing is endless. Even after spending 2 months skiing at the Whistler Blackcomb resort, I feel I’ve hardly touched the surface. The great thing about skiing here is anything can be skied – it’s like a huge playground! 

Skiing in Whistler - me
Els skiing in Whistler

Whistler  

Peak chair 

From the top of the Peak chair, you’ve got a wealth of choices on where to ski. Follow the cat track round to the left and make the steep descent down the Saddle. Or continue round the corner to make your way towards Harmony and Symphony chairlifts. Turn right and head into West Bowl (a mogul field which can be seen from the chairlift) and West Ridge. Or if you’re feeling brave try the Cirque or the Coffin to really get your heart pumping! 

Harmony & Symphony 

This musical themed area of Whistler, which has runs and peaks named Flute, Piccolo, Adagio and Staccato, is another vast area to explore. There are multiple ridges to drop in from, mogul fields to bounce off of and tree runs to dart in and out of. One of my favourite days exploring this area was during our Avalanche Training where we made the 25-minute hike up to the Flute Summit (2012m) and enjoyed fresh powder on our way down. 

At the bottom of Flute, about to climb
The AST touring team ready to climb Flute

Blackcomb

Blackcomb Glacier

One place I’d definitely recommend skiing is the Blackcomb Glacier to visit the ice cave. Take the T-Bar to the right as you exit the Glacier chairlift. Make the short hike uphill (you’ll see multiple people doing this), and you’ll find yourself on the edge of the Blackcomb Glacier bowl. Here, everything is skiable! Stick to the right-hand side of the bowl as you ski down and you’ll see groups of skis parked at the bottom with people walking to and from the ice cave entrance.

Blackcomb Glacier from within the ice cave
Blackcomb Glacier from within the ice cave

Arthur’s Choice 

One of my favourite tree runs, skiing Arthur’s Choice is a hilarious endeavour. Where other tree runs are gladed, these trees have been burnt from the summer wildfire. The contrast of black crisp trees against soft powder makes for a fun way to get down.

Sudan Couloir 

A personal achievement was skiing the Sudan Couloir. This double black has a steep descent often used for events and races such as the Freeski Qualifier. It was the only run I got true fear on as I struggled to make my first turn. Thankfully, the off-piste training during the final 2 weeks of my course saw me ski down multiple times and actually enjoy it. It’s best skied on a clear vis day with some fresh snow!

I wouldn’t have been able to ski a lot of these runs without the AllTracks training.

Whistler, Canada - Peak to Peak Gondola
Peak to Peak gondola

Where to apres 

Longhorns 

Due to a strict limitation on alcohol consumption on the mountain, aprés occur back in the village. The closest thing to European aprés is Longhorns which has a central spot by the Whistler lifts. With sparkler parades, champagne guns and encouraged table dancing, you’re bound to have a good time here! 

Blacks 

Responsible for our most drunken group aprés session, Blacks, is another great option when you come off the slopes. We spent from 3pm till close working our way through pitchers of beer and dancing on chairs to the YMCA. We were then refused further service after half the group were topless…oops.

AllTracks Team at Blacks apres
AllTracks Team at Blacks apres

Cinnamon Bear Bar

Located in the Hilton hotel, the Cinnamon Bear Bar is a chilled place to spend your afternoon post-ski. There’s happy hour 5pm-7pm and a couple of free pool tables to enjoy. We often hung out here as it could host our large group and was an easy place to grab a quick drink.

Amsterdam 

Another group favourite was Amsterdam. There’s limited inside seating but the few outdoor tables are heated and there’s often lively music. I spent my first night out in Whistler here, where 5 of us got to know each other pretty well over pitchers of beer.

Dubh Linn

My favourite night of the week was heading to Dubh Linn Gate Bar. This Irish bar hosts a live band every Saturday night and will have you dancing the night away. If you’re lucky to be in Whistler over St Patrick’s Day, Dubh Linn is the only place to be!

Laura and me at Dubh Linn Bar
Ellie & Laura on St Patrick’s Day

When you’re not skiing 

If you’re not into winter sports but find yourself visiting Whistler, or looking for an alternative activity, there’s plenty to do!

Escape! Whistler 

Test the friendships of your group and try to escape within 45 minutes in one of the 5 escape rooms at Escape! Whistler. Each room is themed with a detailed backstory and a variety of puzzles, anagrams and locks to solve. As a group, we tried 3 rooms; Pirate Ship, the Cabin, and Yukon Gold, and luckily escaped all 3 just in time. It’s a great way to bond as everyone has to work together to get out within the time.

Group photo of us at Escape Whistler
Team photo after escaping at Escape! Whistler

Forged Axe Throwing

In need of some anger management? Head to Forged and enjoy 1 hour of throwing axes at a target. It’s a little out of town, a short taxi drive just beyond Creekside, but easy enough to get to with a craft brewery next to it. The first few throws are for practice before playing games of who’s team can get the most points or hit certain parts of the target before the other team. Once that’s exhausted, try throwing the axe with the blade towards you, 2 axes at once and even 1 giant axe. Perhaps aim with someone or a situation in mind and you’ll find it’s better than therapy! 

Forged Axe Throwing Group Photo
Team photo at Forged

Laugh Out Live 

Thursdays at 8pm, head to the Arts Centre in the middle of town for Laugh our Live. For $10 a ticket, enjoy 2 hours of stand up comedy and sketches. There’s even audience participation where you can win prizes – as long as you don’t mind risking the loss of Dickie-oke (karaoke singing into a dildo). 

Play pool at Bills

Another little pool hideout is Buffalo Bills. This bar is thriving most evenings with a couple of pool tables, dart boards and a dance floor. Head there early if you want to play a game or two as it’s a popular spot. If you arrive later in the evening, there’s often a charge to get in.

Tap in at Tapleys

Opposite Bills is the sports bar Tapleys. This place has screens surrounding the inside of the bar, often showing the latest ice hockey, baseball and basketball games. There are also a few dart boards to play from – we often took turns to go from 1-20 as a team. On certain nights, Tapleys hosts a quiz night and bingo. For the quiz night, the themes are posted the night before giving you the chance to read up on your world news or Jim Carrey movies for example. 

Chloe, Laura and I at Blacks
Chloe, Laura and I at Blacks

Work up a sweat at Core Gym

In the centre of town, Core Gym has everything you need to enjoy a workout. There’s a cardio section, free weights room, a couple of platforms, squat racks, a stretching room and even climbing walls. It’s $125 for the first month which includes a sign-up fee ID card, and $75 per month following that, with the freedom of cancelling anytime.

Shopping

There are plenty of shops in the town to enjoy an afternoon of browsing, grab those last-minute mountain essentials, or supply you with an entirely new ski outfit.

Visit Vancouver for the weekend 

Sometimes life in the mountains can feel like living in a bubble and it’s great to have Vancouver only a 2-hour drive away. One weekend, our 20-strong group headed to Vancouver for the weekend to watch the Vancouver Canucks vs the Calgary Flames. It was a great opportunity to explore the city again and a fun atmosphere to enjoy together!

For more ideas on how to spend 2 days in Vancouver, read my full post here.
AllTracks Group in Vancouver by the Totem Poles in Stanley Park
AllTracks Group in Vancouver by the Totem Poles in Stanley Park

Some activities I didn’t get to try, but would recommend;

  • Bobsleigh; Have a go at flying down the Olympic bobsleigh track. 
  • Tubing; Slide along the snow in a rubber tube. 
  • Ziplining; Speed through the snow-covered trees in the heart of the mountain.
  • Valle Lumina; Wander the shimmering forest at night. 
  • Snowmobile; Explore the mountain in an alternative way on the back of a ski mobile. Don’t forget to wrap up! 
  • Scandinave Spa; No better way to soothe aching legs than relaxing at this silent spa retreat.
Me in ski gear in the snow

Whether you’re visiting for a weekend, week or entire season, this guide will help you make the most of however long you have in Whistler. With so much to do and ski in Whistler, you won’t be stuck on how to stay busy. After 2 months in Whistler, it felt like home and I can’t wait to head back! 

Els x